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THE YENISEY RIVER FROM SOURCE TO SEA
Ranked as the world’s fifth longest, the Yenisey River begins in central Mongolia, and
traverses Siberia, before emptying into the Arctic Ocean. For so long obscured by the
Iron Curtain, the Yenisey remains an unknown quantity to those who live outside the
vast steppe and forest lands through which it flows. In May 2001, two Canadians –
Colin Angus and Remy Quinter, and an Australian – Ben Kozel, launch an expedition
that will be the first to travel the entire 5,540 kilometre length of the river.
Ranked as the world’s fifth longest, the Yenisey River begins in central Mongolia, and
traverses Siberia, before emptying into the Arctic Ocean. For so long obscured by the
Iron Curtain, the Yenisey remains an unknown quantity to those who live outside the
vast steppe and forest lands through which it flows. In May 2001, two Canadians –
Colin Angus and Remy Quinter, and an Australian – Ben Kozel, launch an expedition
that will be the first to travel the entire 5,540 kilometre length of the river.
Having solved a string of logistical
problems just to get themselves and their
equipment to the remote interior of
Mongolia, they begin the trek to locate the
Yenisey’s ultimate source. Yet confusion
reigns as to its precise whereabouts.
problems just to get themselves and their
equipment to the remote interior of
Mongolia, they begin the trek to locate the
Yenisey’s ultimate source. Yet confusion
reigns as to its precise whereabouts.
The three men follow the Yenisey’s uppermost tributary – the Ider River – by foot until it
is broad enough to float a raft and two kayaks. For the majority of Mongolians living
along the Ider, Colin, Remy and Ben are more than just the first westerners who’ve
come this way, they represent the first people to use boats on the river.
is broad enough to float a raft and two kayaks. For the majority of Mongolians living
along the Ider, Colin, Remy and Ben are more than just the first westerners who’ve
come this way, they represent the first people to use boats on the river.
400 kilometres
downstream of its
head-waters, the Ider
merges with the Mörön
River to create the
Selenga. Fed by
melting snow stocks
from the worst winter
the region has seen in
50 years, the Mörön is
in major flood. The
Selenga has broken
itsbanks. Frenzied,
muddy, debris-laden
water now flows
through the wooded
countryside via a
downstream of its
head-waters, the Ider
merges with the Mörön
River to create the
Selenga. Fed by
melting snow stocks
from the worst winter
the region has seen in
50 years, the Mörön is
in major flood. The
Selenga has broken
itsbanks. Frenzied,
muddy, debris-laden
water now flows
through the wooded
countryside via a
confusing array of channels. Unwittingly, the men row off the perennial channel and
soon find trees and thicket closing in on all sides. Unable to avoid the tangle of
vegetation, and at the mercy of a ferocious current, the inevitable is only a matter of
time.
soon find trees and thicket closing in on all sides. Unable to avoid the tangle of
vegetation, and at the mercy of a ferocious current, the inevitable is only a matter of
time.
When the raft snags and flips a
host of unsecured equipment
sinks, and all four large dry bags
(containing money, passports and
most of their equipment) float off
downstream. Worse still, the left
oar-lock and oar work themselves
loose and will never be seen
again. The raft and kayaks are
salvaged, and all but one of the dry
bags retrieved. The missing dry
bag contains, amongst other
things, all the video footage shot
up to that point.
host of unsecured equipment
sinks, and all four large dry bags
(containing money, passports and
most of their equipment) float off
downstream. Worse still, the left
oar-lock and oar work themselves
loose and will never be seen
again. The raft and kayaks are
salvaged, and all but one of the dry
bags retrieved. The missing dry
bag contains, amongst other
things, all the video footage shot
up to that point.
Spurred by the significance of the potential loss, Colin proceeds to give chase in one
of the kayaks. Thus begins a 12 day saga of separation and searching, repairs and
resourcefulness, anxiety and physical hardship, hope and disappointment.
of the kayaks. Thus begins a 12 day saga of separation and searching, repairs and
resourcefulness, anxiety and physical hardship, hope and disappointment.
The three men are re-united at the Mongolia-Russia border. On the heels of an eye-
opening introduction to Russia and its people, the Selenga deposits them into Lake
Baikal, the world's deepest lake and second largest in terms of area. So enormous
is Lake Baikal that it creates its own weather systems. The three men row 100
kilometres to reach the outflow of the Yenisey’s next tributary – the Angara River. And
there, Colin, Remy and Ben are joined by the expedition’s fourth member – Australian
Tim Cope. Less than 8 months earlier, Tim finished a 10,000 cycling epic, from
Moscow to Beijing. (Click here to read more).
opening introduction to Russia and its people, the Selenga deposits them into Lake
Baikal, the world's deepest lake and second largest in terms of area. So enormous
is Lake Baikal that it creates its own weather systems. The three men row 100
kilometres to reach the outflow of the Yenisey’s next tributary – the Angara River. And
there, Colin, Remy and Ben are joined by the expedition’s fourth member – Australian
Tim Cope. Less than 8 months earlier, Tim finished a 10,000 cycling epic, from
Moscow to Beijing. (Click here to read more).
At this point, a long held plan to switch from the kayaks and raft to a traditional wooden
boat is enacted. Restoration of an ideally proportioned yet decrepit dory specimen
takes nearly three weeks, and involves strengthening a semi-rotten hull, building a
cabin, and the installation of an Olympics style sliding rowing seat. Throughout this
period, the men nurture Russian friendships and form an intimate bond with the city of
Irkutsk. One of the local volunteer helpers, a 22 year old Russian woman named
Olya, is invited aboard for the 500 kilometre row from Irkutsk to Bratsk.
boat is enacted. Restoration of an ideally proportioned yet decrepit dory specimen
takes nearly three weeks, and involves strengthening a semi-rotten hull, building a
cabin, and the installation of an Olympics style sliding rowing seat. Throughout this
period, the men nurture Russian friendships and form an intimate bond with the city of
Irkutsk. One of the local volunteer helpers, a 22 year old Russian woman named
Olya, is invited aboard for the 500 kilometre row from Irkutsk to Bratsk.
From Irkutsk, the Angara
extends north in the form
of two massive reservoirs.
The five dory occupants
come to terms with the lack
of flow, regular instances of
choppy water, the cramped
living conditions and a 24
hour rowing regime.
Solidarity, although always
having been a very slippery
thing up to now,
degenerates to a
particularly low level.
extends north in the form
of two massive reservoirs.
The five dory occupants
come to terms with the lack
of flow, regular instances of
choppy water, the cramped
living conditions and a 24
hour rowing regime.
Solidarity, although always
having been a very slippery
thing up to now,
degenerates to a
particularly low level.
An enormous hydroelectric dam at Bratsk bars the way and necessitates the
arrangement of overland transportation of the dory. Throughout the prolonged
layover, the team manages to glimpse the beating heart of this otherwise drab
looking industrial city. The show is stolen by an old acquaintance of Tim’s (from his
cycling journey), who demonstrates the extravagance and danger associated with life
as a wealthy biznisman.
arrangement of overland transportation of the dory. Throughout the prolonged
layover, the team manages to glimpse the beating heart of this otherwise drab
looking industrial city. The show is stolen by an old acquaintance of Tim’s (from his
cycling journey), who demonstrates the extravagance and danger associated with life
as a wealthy biznisman.
| slide into winter gathers momentum, they meet Siberia’s Amish-like ‘old believers’, nibble smoked pork fat with the residents of post-apocalyptic villages, and take refuge in the tee pees of indigenous reindeer herders. Back to 'Journeys' |
Beyond a second large reservoir
and its dam, the Angara’s flow is
restored. Rapids and shallow
depth threaten to deliver a fatal
blow to the dory’s already weak
hull timbers. Logging comes to
prominence, there is talk of
escaped convicts, and a frontier
atmosphere pervades every
human settlement. Three and a
half months after the journey
started, Colin, Remy, Tim and
Ben spill into the Yenisey River
proper. The race to finish is now
on. A consistently strong current
helps to allay fears they won’t
make it to Arctic Ocean before
the river freezes over.
Amongst a swathe of fascinating
experiences during this stage of
the journey, there is the spectre
of radioactive pollution, meteorite
sightings, auroras, and a
growing obsession with
chocolate. As the irresistible
and its dam, the Angara’s flow is
restored. Rapids and shallow
depth threaten to deliver a fatal
blow to the dory’s already weak
hull timbers. Logging comes to
prominence, there is talk of
escaped convicts, and a frontier
atmosphere pervades every
human settlement. Three and a
half months after the journey
started, Colin, Remy, Tim and
Ben spill into the Yenisey River
proper. The race to finish is now
on. A consistently strong current
helps to allay fears they won’t
make it to Arctic Ocean before
the river freezes over.
Amongst a swathe of fascinating
experiences during this stage of
the journey, there is the spectre
of radioactive pollution, meteorite
sightings, auroras, and a
growing obsession with
chocolate. As the irresistible
